"Here we come a-wassailing..." goes the song. What exactly does that mean? Wassail is a fairly stiff brew that made the holidays all the more festive for Merry Old England. However, there were many out there who simply could not afford the cost of the ingredients, but they wanted to share in the spirit of the season. Carolers soon found out that if they went door to door singing they were often invited in for a cup of hot wassail. So the meaning gradually changed from caroling, simply singing for its own reward, to wassailing, singing in anticipation of a nice shot. Here is a recipe for traditional wassail and it will definitely warm you to your toes!

10 very small apples
1 large orange stuck with whole cloves
10 teaspoons brown sugar
2 bottles dry red wine
1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1 teaspoon ground ginger
3 cloves
3 allspice berries
2 or 3 cinnamon sticks
2 cups extra fine sugar
12 to 20 pints of cider according to the number of guests
1 cup (or as much as you like) brandy

1. Core the apples and fill each with a teaspoon of brown sugar. Place in a baking pan and cover the bottom with 1/8-inch of water.

2. Insert cloves into the orange about 1/2" apart.

3. Bake the orange with the apples in a 350° oven. After about 30 minutes, remove the orange and puncture it in several places with a fork or an ice pick.

4. Combine the red wine, cider, nutmeg, ginger, cloves, allspice berries, cinnamon, sugar, apple and orange juice and water in a large, heavy saucepan and heat slowly without letting the mixture come to a boil.

5. Simmer on very low heat for 15 minutes.

6. Strain the wine mixture and add the brandy.

7. Pour into a metal punch bowl, float the apples and orange on top and ladle hot into punch cups.

Makes enough for 15-20 people.